Fårö & Gotland-Sweden’s Best Kept Secrets
Sweden’s best kept secret might just be two picture-perfect Nordic islands in the Baltic Sea. Pack your togs and head north for a dream summer of sea swimming, cycling and movie scenes.
Rawk Hunden, Fårö
Surrounded by the sparkling Baltic Sea, the islands of Gotland and Fårö are a dreamlike escape into Sweden's rich cultural tapestry and natural beauty. Gotland, the largest island in the Baltic, is a treasure trove of medieval charm and vibrant local traditions. Its rugged coastline and serene countryside create a picturesque backdrop for history buffs and nature enthusiasts alike.
Just a short ferry ride away lies the smaller island of Fårö. This enchanting island immortalised by movie director, Ingmar Bergman offers more intimate adventure. Its tranquil landscapes, limestone “rauk” formations and serene beaches, make Fårö the perfect place to unwind and reconnect with nature.
Whether you're drawn by Gotland’s historical allure or Fårö’s untouched beauty, these islands offer a unique glimpse into Sweden’s storied past and breathtaking landscapes. Join us as we delve into the wonders of Gotland and Faro, uncovering hidden gems, local lore, and unforgettable experiences.
Where are the islands and how do I get there?
Gotland is the largest island in the Baltic and can be found off the southeast coast of Sweden. The smaller island, Fårö is separated from Gotland by a narrow strait that takes 5 minutes to cross by ferry.
Getting there couldn’t be easier! The first landing spot is the medieval town of Visby on Gotland, which is served by frequent daily ferries from Nynäshamn and Oskarsham. The crossings are smooth and take around three hours. Alternatively, SAS operates flights to Visby from (or via) Stockholm, Oslo and Copenhagen.
Medieval town of Visby
Our itinerary meant we got the best of both worlds! We flew from Dublin to Stockholm, then caught a short 40-minute connecting flight to Visby. The town is only a 10-minute taxi ride from the airport. On our return, we sailed with Destination Gotland to Nynäshamn, where a dedicated bus took us to Stockholm in under an hour, perfect for spending a night in the capital before flying back to Ireland.
We hired a car in Visby for the duration of our trip and found Mickes, who rents out retro 90s cars down by Visby Harbor. This chilled-out operation is a relaxed and nostalgic way to hire a car on the island and there was something comforting about the scent of the interior, the roll-down windows, and those old-school pop-up door locks. They say nostalgia is a powerful drug!
To get to Fårö, head north to Fårösund, where a free car ferry runs back and forth all day to Broa, in the southwest of Fårö. Easy, quick, and part of the adventure.
Why and when should I go?
Until the 1990’s, the entire island of Fårö was off limits to travelers so it really does feel like a secret location. However, for cinema lovers this island might be very familiar as it was the beloved muse of director Ingmar Bergman. In 1960, Bergman was about to make the movie Through a Glass Darkly and had his sights on the Orkney Islands, but the production company (worried about the movie’s budget) had different ideas. In his search for an equally atmospheric and remote island, Bergman arrived on Fårö and “immediately felt this was his landscape.”
It is told that the landscape and people of Fårö inspired in Bergman a sense of peace, inspiration, and freedom, as well as an urge to create! I echo this! It was by watching Mia Hansen-Løve’s Bergman Island (a homage to the director) that we fell in love with Fårö on screen. Inspired by the landscapes in the film we set about planning our trip.
Until the 1990s, the entire island of Fårö was off-limits to travelers, which might be why it still feels like a well-kept secret. But for cinema lovers, it may already be familiar, this remote island was the beloved muse of legendary Swedish director Ingmar Bergman.
In 1960, Bergman was preparing to film Through a Glass Darkly and had originally set his sights on the Orkney Islands. However, the production company, mindful of the budget, pushed for a more local option. During his search for an equally atmospheric and remote setting, Bergman arrived on Fårö and, as he later said, "immediately felt this was his landscape."
It’s said that both the landscape and people of Fårö stirred in him a profound sense of peace, inspiration, and creative freedom, and I completely relate. In fact, it was while watching Mia Hansen-Løve’s Bergman Island (a beautiful homage to the director) that we first fell in love with Fårö on screen. Moved by the island’s haunting beauty, we knew we had to see it for ourselves.
Berry bushes and fruit trees line the roads through the Bergman Estate
Fårö in summer feels like a dream, wide skies, the soft scent of pine and wildflowers in the air, and that pale northern light that lingers late into the evening. The landscape is stark and poetic. Wind-sculpted limestone formations called rauks line parts of the coast, and fossils lie scattered along quiet beaches if you look closely. You’ll find hidden sea swimming spots tucked between stretches of dune-backed shoreline, perfect for a bracing morning dip or a lazy afternoon float in the clear Baltic water.
Husbod Fiskelage is a perfect swim spot
Exploring by bike is a joy here. The roads are quiet, the scenery ever-changing, and the rhythm of cycling feels just right for the island’s pace. You can coast past pine forests and windswept meadows without seeing another soul, only the occasional fishing hut or a simple roadside bakery serving cinnamon buns and strong coffee.
Fårö also has a quietly impressive food scene. Think farm-to-table restaurants, sourdough baked on site, and produce grown just up the road. There’s nothing fussy, just honest, seasonal ingredients treated with love.
Fårö isn’t a place you tick off a list. It’s a place to slow down, to notice, to breathe. To sit on a quiet beach with a book and no phone signal. To cycle without a plan. To swim in the sea and dry off in the sun. And like Bergman, you might just find it stirs something in you, a little space to think, to dream, and to create.
While Fårö is raw and poetic, Gotland is its slightly more sociable, sun-kissed sibling. The island is ringed with beautiful beaches, each with its own character, from soft stretches of sand perfect for sunbathing, to rugged coves with wooden piers where locals gather for morning swims and evening dips under the golden light of the setting sun. And oh, the sunsets here seem to last forever, as if even time wants to slow down on Gotland.
Scattered along the coastline are red-painted smokehouses, some of which double up as restaurants, such as Katthammarsviks Rökeri. Fresh, simple, and unfussy, this is the kind of place where you sit with your feet in the sand, eat smoked fish, and wash it down with a cold local beer. Speaking of which, Gotland has a growing number of microbreweries, many of which offer tastings and casual food in beautifully restored farm buildings or outdoor beer gardens. It’s easy to spend an afternoon sampling craft brews before heading to a nearby lighthouse to watch the late light fade into the sea.
Katthammarsviks Rökeri
At the heart of the island is the medieval town of Visby, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an utter delight to explore. Enclosed by ancient stone walls, the town is all cobbled streets, ivy-covered ruins, and crooked pastel cottages, with enough history to keep you curious for days. But Visby isn’t stuck in the past, it has a lively, contemporary energy too, with stylish wine bars, excellent restaurants, and cool lifestyle stores tucked between the ruins and rose bushes. We wandered the streets, stopping for glasses of chilled wine and crepes topped with vegan roe (yes!), feeling like we’d stepped into a Scandi fairytale with better lighting.
Colour pops everywhere in Visby
We visited in the last week of August, and honestly, we couldn't have timed it better. We were told it was the warmest week of the summer, and while that might have been a lucky break, late August has a lot going for it. The Swedish school holidays are over, so the islands feel a little quieter and more relaxed, but most cafés, restaurants, and shops are still open, especially around Visby and the coastal areas.
The sea has had all summer to warm up (relatively speaking — this is the Baltic, after all!), and the light has that late-summer softness that makes everything feel golden. It’s warm enough for swimming, cycling, and long outdoor dinners, but with fewer crowds and a more peaceful rhythm that feels just right for these islands.
Where should I stay
Kawk, Visby
We spent our first night on Gotland in Visby and stayed at Kalk, a stylish boutique hotel tucked within the medieval city walls. Housed in a beautifully restored historic building, Kalk blends minimalist Scandinavian design with a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The interiors are pared-back yet thoughtfully curated; think muted tones, natural textures, and soft lighting that make the space feel both serene and modern. The terraces at the back of the hotel offer views of the Baltic Sea. Its central location makes it the perfect base for exploring Visby’s cobblestone streets, ancient ruins, and charming cafés, everything was within easy walking or biking distance.
For a taste of Gotland’s slower, rural side, we stayed at Hotel Stelor, a charming farm stay just 25 minutes south of Visby. Set in a beautifully preserved 1820s stone farmhouse, Stelor has only seven cosy, calming rooms, giving it a wonderfully intimate feel. The grounds include a lush kitchen garden, a lovingly restored barn (perfect for weddings or gatherings), and plenty of corners to simply sit and soak in the countryside. Everything here feels rooted in Gotland: wildflowers on the tables, fresh vegetables from the garden or nearby farms, and local art on the walls. The atmosphere is shaped not just by the place, but by the people who help run the farm, and the many local producers who contribute to the food and feeling of the place.
Grab one of the hotel’s bikes and cycle the safe, dedicated path to the beautiful beaches along the west coast, only minutes away. Roll out a blanket and spend a slow, sleepy afternoon on a quiet, secluded stretch of sand, or head to a beach bar for oysters and cocktails. Whatever your preference, don’t miss the sunset. Stelor isn’t just somewhere to stay, it’s a gentle invitation to slow down and savour Gotland’s everyday magic.
We spent a few blissful nights at Miina’s whitewashed cottage on Fårö. Surrounded by whispering pine trees, wild strawberries, and open meadows, this peaceful hideaway made the perfect base for exploring the island at a slower pace. Each morning, we watched the sun rise over the meadow just beyond the front door, and at night, the sky transformed into a theatre of stars, one evening even treated us to a dramatic blood-red moonrise. The cottage has a relaxed, summery charm, complete with a garden tiki bar and an outdoor dining area that invited long, lazy meals under the trees. Just down the road, we grabbed lunch at Crêperie Tati, a fun mashup of 1950s Americana and Nordic cool. And best of all, the island’s iconic sea stacks were only a few minutes’ drive away, making spontaneous sunset swims and golden hour strolls an easy part of our daily rhythm. Miina’s place is ideal for anyone craving a dreamy Swedish summer escape.
Sunrise at Miina’s cottage.
