The French Riviera’s Wild Side: Discovering Les Calanques
The South of France is better known for glitzy beaches and Riviera chic, but this rugged coastline shows its untamed edge. You might stumble upon a secluded cove or a secret plunge spot, feeling for a moment that you’re the first to find it. Dive into the dramatic, wild side of the French Riviera.
What’s the story, where are the Calanques?
Tucked between the rugged coast of Marseille and the dreamy little port of Cassis in the South of France, the Calanques are a dramatic invitation to nature’s more daring side. The word calanque comes from the Provençal calanco and refers to narrow inlets of limestone cliffs dropping straight into turquoise Mediterranean waters.
What makes the area so unique is this wild dialogue between the land and sea, chalk-white rock rising from the blue, pine and maquis clinging to improbable cracks, and below the surface a rich marine world of Posidonia meadows and colourful sea life.
How to get there
Reaching the Calanques is part of the adventure. Most travellers arrive through Marseille, the lively southern port city that guards the gateway to this wild stretch of coast. If you’re flying, land at Marseille Provence Airport (MRS); about 25 km northwest of the city. From there, it’s an easy 30-minute shuttle bus (route A1) into the city centre (Gare Saint-Charles).
If you’re coming from Paris, Lyon, or Nice, the TGV high-speed train takes you straight into Marseille in a few hours, it’s often faster and far more scenic than flying. Once in Marseille, local buses connect you to Luminy or Cassis, two of the main starting points for exploring the Calanques National Park.
For something more romantic, you can arrive by sea. Ferries and private boats depart from the Vieux Port or from Cassis marina, gliding along the limestone coast and slipping into the narrow turquoise coves that give the Calanques their magic. Whether you choose to hike, paddle, or sail your way in, the journey itself feels like a slow reveal, the Mediterranean unfolding one cliff at a time.
How we did it
We flew direct from Dublin to Marseille with Ryanair. After a couple of nights exploring Marseille’s colourful streets, its bustling Vieux Port, and a few too many café terraces, we decided to base ourselves in Cassis to explore the Calanques properly.
The train from Marseille Saint-Charles to Cassis takes only about 20 minutes, from there, a regular shuttle bus ferries travellers down to the heart of the village in under 10 minutes.
Where we stayed
In Marseille, we stayed two nights at Casa Ortega, a retro-styled B&B near Gare Saint-Charles, the perfect spot for our (very) late arrival and onward journey to Cassis. The owner, Caroline, is warm, friendly, and a wonderful conversationalist. She serves her own homemade granola for breakfast and keeps the coffee flowing.
In the heart of the picture-perfect village of Cassis, we based ourselves on a quiet street just off the main square, only minutes from the seafront and ideal for a morning swim or an evening stroll to the lively waterfront bars. Le Clos des Arômes is the perfect mid-range boutique hotel, with rooms dressed in soft pinks and terracotta tones that radiate Riviera warmth. The garden restaurant feels like a scene from a Provençal postcard. Dappled sunlight filtering through the trees, tables draped in checked cloths beneath the shade, and wrought-iron chairs with graceful curls and a timeworn patina - that unmistakably French charm that makes you want to linger over breakfast just a little longer.
When to hike the Calanques: Our September sweet spot
The Calanques are best explored from September to May, when the scorching summer heat mellows and the crowds thin out - well, relatively. We timed our visit for late September, and it turned out to be spot on. With daytime temperatures hovering in the low to mid 20s°C, hiking was comfortable, and the trails were noticeably quieter than in peak season. I say quieter, not quiet because even in the off-season, this rugged paradise draws plenty of hikers and climbers. Expect to share the paths with fellow outdoor enthusiasts who are just as enchanted by the dramatic limestone cliffs and turquoise coves. The beaches, are still buzzing as autumn doesn’t seem to dampen their appeal, which makes you wonder, just how packed do they get in the height of summer?
Which trails to choose?
If you're planning a hike through the Calanques, two standout routes offer breathtaking views, dramatic cliffs, and turquoise waters that make every step worth it.
Trail 1: From Luminy to Calanque de Sugiton & Calanque de Morgiou
Starting from the Luminy campus near Marseille, this trail is ideal for a half-day adventure. It’s well-marked and moderately challenging, winding through pine forests and rocky paths before revealing the stunning Calanque de Sugiton. The viewpoint above Sugiton is a must-stop for a breathtaking panoramic. If you're eager to push further and have experience with unaided scrambling on steep descents, the trail continues to Calanque de Morgiou, where fishing boats bob in the water and the limestone cliffs feel almost sculptural.
Best for: Sweeping views, accessible paths, and a taste of local climbing culture.
Tip: Go early to have Sugiton beach to yourself. In high season (June – mid September), access to Sugiton is only permitted with a prior booking. Expierenced hikers can reward themselves at Calanque de Morgiou with a cold beer at Le Nautic Bar.
Difficulty: Moderate to diffucult, covering about 7.9 km with an elevation gain of 328 m, taking around 2.5–3 hours to complete.
Trail 2: From Cassis to Calanque d’En Vau
This is the iconic Calanques hike, and for good reason. Starting from Cassis, you’ll pass Calanque de Port-Miou and Calanque de Port-Pin before reaching the showstopper: Calanque d’En Vau. The descent into En Vau is steep and rocky, but the reward is a secluded beach framed by towering cliffs and crystalline water. It’s postcard-perfect and popular with climbers scaling the vertical walls above.
Best for: Adventurous hikers, dramatic scenery, and a refreshing swim at the end.
Tip: Wear sturdy hiking shoes for the rocky terrain, and pack water shoes if you plan to swim, as the beaches are stony and uneven. Bring plenty of water and your own snacks, since there are no facilities along the way. A snorkel is a great addition! The water is crystal clear, revealing vibrant schools of fish and even the occasional octopus gliding between the rocks. This trail is more demanding than most, but absolutely unforgettable.
Difficulty: Moderate, covering about 7 km (round trip) with an elevation gain of about 280 meters, and typically takes 3 - 4 hours.
From Trail to Tide: Cooling off in Cassis
Cassis isn’t just a gateway to the Calanques, it’s home to charming beaches that offer the perfect post-hike reward. Plage de la Grande Mer, right near the town center, is ideal for a refreshing dip and a relaxed afternoon. For something quieter, Plage du Bestouan is a pebble beach with deep, clear water and a more local vibe. Both spots have a little beach bar and either is the perfect front-row seat to watch the sun set. Grab a few slices from Casa Roma Pizza al taglio and a botttle of wine and settle in while the cliffs surrounding the bay catch the golden light, and the sea turns into a shimmering canvas of pinks and oranges.
Trail to Table: Where to eat
Being in France, you're never far from a good meal and Marseille and Cassis are no exception. From seaside cafés to Provençal bistros, there’s no shortage of delicious options. That said, a few spots truly stand out for their charm, quality, or unbeatable views. Here are some noteworthy places to check out, whether you’re refueling after a hike or settling in for a sunset dinner.
Oh Faon! (Marseille) – A vegan pâtisserie with cakes so good they’ll convert even the most devoted butter-lovers.
Rooftop Bar at Mucem (Marseille) – Sip a chilled glass of La Phocéenne, a local beer served in retro-branded glasses, while soaking up panoramic views of the port and the Frioul Islands.
Cassis et Romarin (Cassis) – A charming vegetarian restaurant tucked away on a quiet street. Seasonal dishes, warm service, and a peaceful setting make it a standout.
Le Petit Oyster Bar (Cassis) – Unique oysters and crisp white wine just a stone’s throw from the sea. Casual, fresh, and perfect for seafood lovers.
Cassis Weekly Market – A vibrant selection of fresh vegetables, local olives, and artisanal oils every Wednesday and Friday. Ideal for assembling a picnic or stocking up on Provençal flavors.
Casa Roma Pizza al Taglio (Cassis) – Grab a few slices and head to the beach for a sunset picnic. Simple, satisfying, and perfectly timed for golden hour.
Boulangerie Lion (Cassis) – With its old-school shopfront and heavenly scent of fresh bread, this bakery is perfect for grabbing croissants and baguettes before a morning swim at Plage de la Grande Mer.
La Presqu'île (Cassis) – Front-row seats to the sunset and a surprisingly decent attempt at a plant-based tasting menu.
